In Search of an Orchid as Big as a Plate

One day, not long ago, I sat at the round table invillages of Lamas and Rioja. We had a good
front of the Yellow Rose, drinking a cold Iquitenaadventure, accomplished most of what we set out
with my good friend, Ryan, talking about the manyto do, and learned a lot. We learned the truth is
beautiful orchids and epiphytes we have observed inrarely heard, seldom seen, and difficult to photograph.
the rainforest near Iquitos, Peru. Ryan nodded hisThe orchid is more the size of a saucer than a plate,
head.but it is one of the most beautiful, rare, and valuable
He glanced over his shoulder, leaned toward me, andblossoms I have ever laid eyes on. Here is most of
said in a low voice, "My spies, which are wrong ninetyits story, woven together from several sources we
percent of the time, tell me that a new species ofinterviewed in and around Moyobamba. Some of the
orchid has been discovered near Moyobamba the sizelocations and most of the juicy gossip I am keeping
of a dinner plate."to myself.
"Sounds more like the size of a pile of horse manureA farmer named Faustino Medina set in motion an
to me."Indiana Jones style adventure by discovering a large
"My spies work for INRENA."group of pretty flowering plants. He dug some and
"I always wanted to go to Moyobamba."sold them at a crossroad truck stop called El
"They say the weather is perfect every day andProgresso, for $1 apiece. An orchid collector from
every night."Virginia, like a typical gringo, paid $3.60 for three of
"I think I will go tomorrow."them. He can be forgiven for not negotiating the
"You know about the Lacey Act?"price. He knew they could be worth $10,000 apiece
"How can I not know, you lecture me on it once aand make him famous. I imagine him running down
week!"the road, looking over his shoulder, cradling his three
"I only want you to be careful and stay out oftreasures, but an important part of the story is he
trouble. This orchid is unknown to science, it isused Lee Moore's taxi driver, Jose Mendoza. He did
unnamed. You can not touch it, hold it, move it,not have to run; Mendoza drove him directly to
transport it, or export it. You understand?"Moore, who confirmed, "You have the Holy Grail of
"I understand! I only want to look at it. Smell it'sOrchids."
scent, photograph it for posterity. That surely doesn'tWild orchids are protected by the international CITES
violate the Lacey Act, does it?"treaty. This orchid was new to science and was
"Be careful, it's intoxicating."unnamed. The catch is that only 23 experts in the
I spent one day researching and packing. My bestworld can name an orchid and none of them are in
friend, Marmelita, and I left the next day forPeru. To gain possession of an unnamed, world-class
Tarapoto, a quiet, clean, farming community. Weorchid is hard. To get a legal permit to take the
found an inexpensive hostel, two blocks from theorchid to an official taxonomist is next to impossible.
central plaza, took a motokar to the market andLegend has it that Lee Moore has smuggled most of
made a meal out of fresh milk, whole grain cornthe things that can be smuggled. His advice was to
bread, good cheese, fruits, and nuts from the localput it in a suitcase and go straight to the Marie Selby
farms.Botanical Gardens in Sarasota, Florida. They are
My Nikon D-70 camera malfunctioned and the man ataffiliated with five taxonomists, the most of any
the camera repair shop loaned us his digital Canonbotanical garden in the world. The collector walked
while he worked on mine. In the afternoon we hiredthrough customs, worked up some papers, and
a car to take us up to the High Cascade Waterfalls, arealized his dream by having the lady slipper orchid
great place to swim and enjoy nature. In the eveningnamed after him, Phragmipedium kovachii.
we ate delicious, giant, fresh, aqua-farmed MalaysianIt is ok to build a road and destroy a million orchids.
shrimp and washed it down with a pitcher of mangoOne gets a permit. It is not ok to take an orchid out
juice. The next morning my camera was still in piecesof the country in a suitcase. That it has been done
so we decided to spend another day in Tarapoto.many times is not a defense, and it was not a
Tarapoto is not a bad place for nature lovers. It wasdefense this time. Federal agents confiscated the
near here the English botanist and explorer, Richardplant and charged and convicted the collector and the
Spruce, discovered and named the Platyceriumbotanical garden of possession of an endangered
Andinum, or Staghorn Fern. Spruce's specimen diedspecies and illegal trade. They paid fines, served
before getting back to England and it was not untilprobation, and suffered loss of reputation.
1969 that Lee Moore, the Adventurer, rediscoveredAt approximately the same time, the taxi driver, Jose
the staghorn in the vicinity of Tarapoto and got aMendoza, raided Faustino Medina's patch, taking
live specimen back to civilization.every plant, and selling them on the black market to
I fondly remember growing two staghorn ferns indealers in Ecuador and Lima. Lee Moore has the other
the shower of my bathroom in Indiana, in the 70s,two plants left by the collector, and has acquired 200
doing my best to recreate the tropical rainforestothers that he is raising and propagating for the time
environment. When I found my first magnificentwhen they are legal to export.
specimen in the wild rainforest, I realized how pitifulFaustino discovered another patch and seems to
my houseplants had been. This monster circled mosthave sold several hundred for $4 apiece to a rogue
of the tree, had fronds hanging down five feet orwith a pickup truck named Kenneth Reategui, who
more, and the 35 shield fronds grew nearly two feethas a small recreational park and restaurant on the
tall. If my house plants had reached their naturaloutskirts of Tarapoto. He fenced them to an orchid
potential, there would not have been room for me todealer in Lima for what is understood to be a small
have taken a shower.fortune. An article appeared in the Orchidist, about
The next morning my camera still did not work. Ithe last known site of P. kovachii. A thousand mature
purchased the used Canon 3.2 megapixel I hadplants. It was considered to be a safe site because
borrowed the day before. Compared to the Nikon atof its inaccessibility, requiring a "hike from hell." Two
5 megapixels, with the wonderful lens and all theweeks later a helicopter with cargo boxes swooped
buttons and functions that I know and love, this wasin and stole all but two plants too high up on the cliff
a big loss. With no practice and the manual in Spanish,to reach. Armed men who would not know an orchid
the odds of getting great photos were about thefrom a cactus are fingering the hibiscus.
same as finding an orchid big as a plate.Intoxicating.
Moyobamba is the Orchid City, with 2,500 species ofAnyone interested in having an adventure,
orchids growing in the high jungle around the town.photographing orchids, touring Tarapoto, Moyobamba
Marmelita and I hiked jungle trails, saw hundreds ofand the surrounding countryside, swimming under
species in full bloom, soaked in the hot springs, wentwaterfalls, and soaking in natural hot springs can
to more waterfalls, and pursued tips to the nearbycontact me to arrange the details.