| If you have a romantic heart and an | | | | meet the women of the tribe and the female |
| adventurous spirit, then you have to ride an | | | | riders only were allowed into their separate |
| Arab horse across the desert of Wadi Rum at | | | | part of the tent. We communicated with the |
| least once in your lifetime.Wadi Rum, in the | | | | women in sign language and by drawing |
| far south of Jordan, is also known as Valley | | | | pictures and realized that we had the same |
| of the Moon. It is an enchanting place where | | | | wants and needs whatever culture we come |
| massive rocky outcrops rise majestically out | | | | from. I felt that we had witnessed something |
| of the desert floor. The rocks have the | | | | very special that the normal tourist doesn't |
| appearance of melting chocolate and the | | | | usually see.At the end of each long day in |
| colours in the sandstone are like a muted | | | | the saddle, when we were tired and hungry, |
| earthy rainbow. It is a landscape like no | | | | the cook and crew had already set up camp. I |
| other.I have ridden twice now in Wadi Rum | | | | was always amazed by the places they found |
| with Equitour Worldwide Riding Holidays Both | | | | for us to spend the night. The crew |
| trips were spectacular and different. I met | | | | consisted of a very good cook and assistant, |
| old friends and made new. That is the | | | | horse handlers, maybe a local vet and |
| wonderful thing about horses - they bring | | | | drivers. There were normally about two or |
| people together who enjoy a challenge | | | | three 4WD pickup trucks, which carried food |
| whatever their age.Initially I was anxious | | | | and water for the horses, for the riders and |
| about my riding ability and crossing the sort | | | | also all our bags and camping equipment. |
| of terrain described in the brochure. I | | | | They stayed discreetly out of the way when we |
| remember on the first trip, the briefing | | | | were riding unless needed for water etc and |
| session was held in a fabulous Bedouin style | | | | they went on ahead to find resting places and |
| restaurant in the capital Amman. I thought | | | | overnight campsites. Sometimes a rider |
| that I was the most inexperienced rider of | | | | decided a rest was needed and so swopped |
| the whole group and asked Ishmael, who owns | | | | their horse for a seat in one of the |
| the local tour company out there, to make | | | | trucks.Camping was the most wonderful fun and |
| sure that I had a very quiet horse.The next | | | | I was surprised at how everyone forgot about |
| day we left Amman and set off in a mini bus | | | | their complex lives at home and wanted to |
| down the Desert Highway, which is the main | | | | stay in the desert forever with few or little |
| motorway through Jordan, from Syria to Saudi | | | | possessions. We were fed ample freshly cooked |
| Arabia. The journey was full of sights new to | | | | food that was delicious and wine, beer and |
| our Western eyes. We passed convoys of | | | | soft drinks were provided. We all sat around |
| colourful trucks transporting goods to Saudi | | | | the fire exchanging stories and learning |
| and at the side of the highway in the scrubby | | | | about the Bedouin way of life. We heard the |
| desert were small settlements of concrete | | | | men singing love songs to the horses to keep |
| very basic single storey dwellings. We could | | | | them calm. One night, members of a local |
| see children running around amongst the goats | | | | tribe visited us and we had a really |
| and donkeys and camels. We passed a local | | | | enjoyable and spontaneous evening. We found |
| farmer with a camel sitting calmly in the | | | | the Bedouins to be a very proud and |
| back of his 4WD Pickup. Our driver waved to | | | | hospitable race with a great sense of |
| him and he pulled in at the side of the road | | | | humour.On each trip, the crew made us a |
| for us take photos of his strange and | | | | makeshift shower so everyone could have a |
| unconcerned passenger. We stopped at a | | | | thorough wash. I remember how wonderful it |
| roadside tourist shop to buy typical Arab | | | | was to feel clean and refreshed. I sat on a |
| scarves known as kufeyyas, which would prove | | | | high rocky ledge above the horses with a can |
| indispensable against the harsh sun and later | | | | of cold lager to watch the sun go down and |
| we picked up some dates and huge blocks of | | | | the colours of the desert change.Although |
| ice from a local supermarket.We arrived at | | | | tents were provided, most of us liked to put |
| the edge of Wadi Rum and the horses were | | | | our sleeping bags on the rocks or just on the |
| waiting for us. I looked at them nervously | | | | lovely soft sand. I stayed on my high rocky |
| wondering which one would be mine and hoping | | | | ledge and lay there watching the bright stars |
| it would be very quiet. The tack was a | | | | shooting across the sky and feeling |
| curious affair of blankets and pads covered | | | | completely at one with the mysterious nature |
| in fabric your Grandmother once had on her | | | | of Wadi Rum.At the end of the second trip I |
| settee, plus the saddle and a very basic | | | | sadly said goodbye to my horse and the crew |
| bridle. We were told to sit with legs well | | | | at the edge of the desert. We were taken by |
| forward and reins held high in one hand. The | | | | minibus to our luxury five star Hotel in |
| horses responded to body movement and very | | | | Petra near to the famous Nabatean city. I |
| light neck reining. They jogged in the gait | | | | strode into the reception area with its |
| typical of their breed, which took a bit of | | | | marble floors and Persian rugs, feeling hot |
| getting used to. My mare was very quiet and | | | | and sweaty and covered in red dust. The |
| didn't jog but liked to roll in the soft sand | | | | staff did not bat an eyelid. That night I |
| without any warning. When we had got used to | | | | rolled over and fell out of my king size bed |
| our horses and the style of riding, we | | | | because I had got so used to sleeping on the |
| quickened the pace. Just a shake of the reins | | | | ground.The next morning a guided tour of |
| and we were cantering fast across the desert | | | | Petra had been arranged for us. I spent the |
| floor, weaving in and out of the desert broom | | | | whole day there and then realized I was late |
| bushes. It was exhilarating. | | | | for an appointment at the famous Brooke |
| | | | Animal Hospital, near the entrance. There was |
| My horsemanship fears soon disappeared and | | | | no time to walk so I hired a camel and |
| by the end of the week, I had progressed from | | | | trotted fast through the ancient city with |
| my quiet mare to one of the liveliest horses | | | | the owner running behind me. When the camel |
| on the trip.Each day was different as we rode | | | | reached the Treasury I had to leave it but |
| around the desert through deep red rock | | | | was then given a horse to ride at top speed |
| canyons and ascended the airy heights of | | | | to the hospital. I just made it in time to |
| enormous rippled dunes. We stood on the very | | | | have a tour with the Head Vet and give a |
| edge and marveled at the scenery below. We | | | | donation to the charity. Indiana Jones eat |
| saw the Seven Pillars of Wisdom made famous | | | | your heart out!The next day a few of us hired |
| by T.E Lawrence; we found secret water | | | | a car and driver and were taken down to the |
| springs used only by the Bedouin; we passed | | | | famous port of Aqaba on the Red Sea. It has |
| camel trains and goat herders; we saw rock | | | | one of the finest corral reefs in the world |
| paintings thousands of years old. Only very | | | | and we spent our last day, before the flight |
| occasionally did we see tourists but most of | | | | home, snorkeling and relaxing on the beach. |
| the time we were on our own. The horses were | | | | It was a fitting end to a fantastic |
| game and lively and gave the whole journey a | | | | holiday.My riding trip to Jordan was over but |
| sense of gaiety. When we came to a stretch | | | | will never be forgotten. And hopefully, |
| of flat desert, we galloped all together in | | | | there will always be another adventure |
| one long row, one arm raised like Arab | | | | waiting for me out there in the desert.Visit |
| warriors charging.Once we spied a Bedouin | | | | Jordan with Equitour Worldwide Riding |
| tent complete with Toyota and camels in the | | | | Holidays once and you will be enchanted. |
| distance. One of the crew phoned the sheik | | | | Visit a second time and you will be welcomed |
| on his mobile and we were invited over for | | | | like an old friend. |
| coffee in his tent. We asked if we could | | | | |