| If you have a romantic heart and an adventurous | | | | meet the women of the tribe and the female riders |
| spirit, then you have to ride an Arab horse across | | | | only were allowed into their separate part of the |
| the desert of Wadi Rum at least once in your | | | | tent. We communicated with the women in sign |
| lifetime.Wadi Rum, in the far south of Jordan, is also | | | | language and by drawing pictures and realized that |
| known as Valley of the Moon. It is an enchanting | | | | we had the same wants and needs whatever culture |
| place where massive rocky outcrops rise majestically | | | | we come from. I felt that we had witnessed |
| out of the desert floor. The rocks have the | | | | something very special that the normal tourist doesn't |
| appearance of melting chocolate and the colours in | | | | usually see.At the end of each long day in the saddle, |
| the sandstone are like a muted earthy rainbow. It is | | | | when we were tired and hungry, the cook and crew |
| a landscape like no other.I have ridden twice now in | | | | had already set up camp. I was always amazed by |
| Wadi Rum with Equitour Worldwide Riding Holidays | | | | the places they found for us to spend the night. The |
| Both trips were spectacular and different. I met old | | | | crew consisted of a very good cook and assistant, |
| friends and made new. That is the wonderful thing | | | | horse handlers, maybe a local vet and drivers. There |
| about horses - they bring people together who enjoy | | | | were normally about two or three 4WD pickup |
| a challenge whatever their age.Initially I was anxious | | | | trucks, which carried food and water for the horses, |
| about my riding ability and crossing the sort of terrain | | | | for the riders and also all our bags and camping |
| described in the brochure. I remember on the first | | | | equipment. They stayed discreetly out of the way |
| trip, the briefing session was held in a fabulous | | | | when we were riding unless needed for water etc |
| Bedouin style restaurant in the capital Amman. I | | | | and they went on ahead to find resting places and |
| thought that I was the most inexperienced rider of | | | | overnight campsites. Sometimes a rider decided a |
| the whole group and asked Ishmael, who owns the | | | | rest was needed and so swopped their horse for a |
| local tour company out there, to make sure that I | | | | seat in one of the trucks.Camping was the most |
| had a very quiet horse.The next day we left Amman | | | | wonderful fun and I was surprised at how everyone |
| and set off in a mini bus down the Desert Highway, | | | | forgot about their complex lives at home and wanted |
| which is the main motorway through Jordan, from | | | | to stay in the desert forever with few or little |
| Syria to Saudi Arabia. The journey was full of sights | | | | possessions. We were fed ample freshly cooked |
| new to our Western eyes. We passed convoys of | | | | food that was delicious and wine, beer and soft |
| colourful trucks transporting goods to Saudi and at | | | | drinks were provided. We all sat around the fire |
| the side of the highway in the scrubby desert were | | | | exchanging stories and learning about the Bedouin |
| small settlements of concrete very basic single | | | | way of life. We heard the men singing love songs to |
| storey dwellings. We could see children running around | | | | the horses to keep them calm. One night, members |
| amongst the goats and donkeys and camels. We | | | | of a local tribe visited us and we had a really |
| passed a local farmer with a camel sitting calmly in | | | | enjoyable and spontaneous evening. We found the |
| the back of his 4WD Pickup. Our driver waved to | | | | Bedouins to be a very proud and hospitable race with |
| him and he pulled in at the side of the road for us | | | | a great sense of humour.On each trip, the crew |
| take photos of his strange and unconcerned | | | | made us a makeshift shower so everyone could |
| passenger. We stopped at a roadside tourist shop to | | | | have a thorough wash. I remember how wonderful it |
| buy typical Arab scarves known as kufeyyas, which | | | | was to feel clean and refreshed. I sat on a high |
| would prove indispensable against the harsh sun and | | | | rocky ledge above the horses with a can of cold |
| later we picked up some dates and huge blocks of | | | | lager to watch the sun go down and the colours of |
| ice from a local supermarket.We arrived at the edge | | | | the desert change.Although tents were provided, |
| of Wadi Rum and the horses were waiting for us. I | | | | most of us liked to put our sleeping bags on the |
| looked at them nervously wondering which one | | | | rocks or just on the lovely soft sand. I stayed on my |
| would be mine and hoping it would be very quiet. The | | | | high rocky ledge and lay there watching the bright |
| tack was a curious affair of blankets and pads | | | | stars shooting across the sky and feeling completely |
| covered in fabric your Grandmother once had on her | | | | at one with the mysterious nature of Wadi Rum.At |
| settee, plus the saddle and a very basic bridle. We | | | | the end of the second trip I sadly said goodbye to |
| were told to sit with legs well forward and reins held | | | | my horse and the crew at the edge of the desert. |
| high in one hand. The horses responded to body | | | | We were taken by minibus to our luxury five star |
| movement and very light neck reining. They jogged | | | | Hotel in Petra near to the famous Nabatean city. I |
| in the gait typical of their breed, which took a bit of | | | | strode into the reception area with its marble floors |
| getting used to. My mare was very quiet and didn't | | | | and Persian rugs, feeling hot and sweaty and |
| jog but liked to roll in the soft sand without any | | | | covered in red dust. The staff did not bat an eyelid. |
| warning. When we had got used to our horses and | | | | That night I rolled over and fell out of my king size |
| the style of riding, we quickened the pace. Just a | | | | bed because I had got so used to sleeping on the |
| shake of the reins and we were cantering fast | | | | ground.The next morning a guided tour of Petra had |
| across the desert floor, weaving in and out of the | | | | been arranged for us. I spent the whole day there |
| desert broom bushes. It was exhilarating. | | | | and then realized I was late for an appointment at |
| My horsemanship fears soon disappeared and by the | | | | the famous Brooke Animal Hospital, near the |
| end of the week, I had progressed from my quiet | | | | entrance. There was no time to walk so I hired a |
| mare to one of the liveliest horses on the trip.Each | | | | camel and trotted fast through the ancient city with |
| day was different as we rode around the desert | | | | the owner running behind me. When the camel |
| through deep red rock canyons and ascended the | | | | reached the Treasury I had to leave it but was then |
| airy heights of enormous rippled dunes. We stood on | | | | given a horse to ride at top speed to the hospital. I |
| the very edge and marveled at the scenery below. | | | | just made it in time to have a tour with the Head |
| We saw the Seven Pillars of Wisdom made famous | | | | Vet and give a donation to the charity. Indiana Jones |
| by T.E Lawrence; we found secret water springs | | | | eat your heart out!The next day a few of us hired a |
| used only by the Bedouin; we passed camel trains | | | | car and driver and were taken down to the famous |
| and goat herders; we saw rock paintings thousands | | | | port of Aqaba on the Red Sea. It has one of the |
| of years old. Only very occasionally did we see | | | | finest corral reefs in the world and we spent our last |
| tourists but most of the time we were on our own. | | | | day, before the flight home, snorkeling and relaxing |
| The horses were game and lively and gave the | | | | on the beach. It was a fitting end to a fantastic |
| whole journey a sense of gaiety. When we came to | | | | holiday.My riding trip to Jordan was over but will |
| a stretch of flat desert, we galloped all together in | | | | never be forgotten. And hopefully, there will always |
| one long row, one arm raised like Arab warriors | | | | be another adventure waiting for me out there in the |
| charging.Once we spied a Bedouin tent complete with | | | | desert.Visit Jordan with Equitour Worldwide Riding |
| Toyota and camels in the distance. One of the crew | | | | Holidays once and you will be enchanted. Visit a |
| phoned the sheik on his mobile and we were invited | | | | second time and you will be welcomed like an old |
| over for coffee in his tent. We asked if we could | | | | friend. |