A Very Kenyan Christmas

Kenya has been one of our most popular familythrough the plane headphones. Tight circles around a
destinations for a couple of years now; wonderfulsmall herd of elephant elicited more 'ooing and ahing'.
game, small owner run lodges and great beachColin and Rocky Francombe run Ol Malo delightfully
properties make it hard to beat for all round variety.and we felt very much part of their family during our
Though we have previously spent Christmas in Southstay. With an infinity pool to die for and wonderfully
Africa, this year we decided to escape the winter chillcomfortable rooms it was a great place to relax for
in Kenya. Though I could write pages on the trulya bit after all the activity at Rekero. There is game in
fantastic two weeks we had as a family, here arethe area, and though it is more widely dispersed than
just the highlights.in the Mara we did sight leopard - a thrill for all.
Our first stop was Rekero Tented Camp in a quietWe also rode camels here, and ours might have been
corner of the Masai Mara, where many of our clientsabout the slowest form of conveyance there is, but
stay and the feedback is excellent.great fun none the less. The horses were faster, but
Since Rekero is unfenced and the camp is open tothere were mounts for both beginners and experts
any animal that feels like wandering past, I hadso this was a fun way to explore the bush. The Ol
assumed the children (10 and 12) would each share aMalo highlight was the day we, and the other family
tent with either Peter or me. Masai host and headstaying at the lodge, spent by the Ewaso Ng'iro river.
guide Jackson Looseyia had other ideas and insistedThe camels carried a wonderful picnic down to the
that they were warriors and must have a tent ofriverbank and by the time we arrived all was
their own. Despite my initial worries he was, ofbeautifully set up. There were even inner tyre tubes
course, absolutely right. They loved the cocoon-liketo use as floats down the little rapids (no crocodiles
atmosphere of the tent complete with bucketor bilharzia here). After swimming and mud slinging we
shower, loo and solar lanterns and slept right throughhad a great lunch, followed by a very competitive
all the nocturnal activity outside. It also made themboys v girls fishing competition. It was touch and go
completely responsible: they obeyed the instructionsfor a while but the boys eventually won 15 to 12.
not to open the zip until they were fetched in theOur Samburu guide, Hussain, understood the boys
morning so completely they didn't even stretch outwell and added to the weapon collection with a
an arm to collect their morning hot chocolate andknobkerrie (Samburu fighting stick) for each child.
biscuits left on their veranda.These beautifully made but lethal weapons were just
Our eagle-eyed guide James was a wonderfullya start for our two boys, who added a complement
entertaining companion on game drives and managedof miscellaneous sticks for good measure.
to find plenty to keep us all interested. One of hisAn overnight stop in Nairobi was spent at Giraffe
more unusual finds was a zebra that had somehowManor, where the next morning a giraffe came so
got itself wedged in rocks in a river bank. He decidedclose we could feed her cattle nuts from our
it was worth seeing if we could release it, and thefirst-floor bedroom window. Highly entertaining, and it
boys got stuck in trying to help. Unfortunately afterwas great to see these fabulously elegant creatures
20 minutes or so it was apparent that the zebra wasup close.
exhausted and we were going to have to leave it toOur final four nights were on the beach at Manda
its fate.Bay near Lamu, where I promptly lost my husband
We spent one morning looking for rhino but hadto the temptations of salt water fishing and the boys
drawn a blank until we decided to stop for breakfast.to an assortment of water sports.
By this time the boys had been armed with MasaiI hardly missed them. Twelve luxurious thatched
bow and arrows and were shooting off the top ofcottages spread along a glorious expanse of sandy
the hill where we were parked. When we werewhite beach proved the perfect setting to wind
searching for a misfired arrow we stumbled acrossdown after all the excitement of the previous ten
the elusive rhino - perhaps not a conventional way todays. We were served some of the best seafood I
track game, but very effective.have ever eaten and divided our time between dhow
After three great days, we flew to Ol Malo in Laikipia.trips (a must), fishing and watching the boys windsurf
Our plane buzzed the flamingoes on Lake Nakuru,and wakeboard. Our four nights sped past.
accompanied by yells of 'cool' from my children